LFW 2018: Mughal Influences, Indo-Western Silhouettes, Aditi Rao At Payal Singhal
In a season that harboured largely on extremes from full-blown couture pieces to that of acute casualness to that of a bold individuality (read Anamika Khanna), Payal Singhal bravely chose to present a relatively understated collection that perfectly negotiated the territories between all extremes. Showcasing at the recently-concluded Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018, Payal brought forth her latest collection ‘Saira’ which simply put is a safe respite for both, no-fuss festive wear and the non-bridal wedding wear (mostly but not completely).
Highlights from Payal’s show…
You know how we’ve always raved about Aditi Rao Hydari’s ethnic charm that has made the diva our ultimate style icon when it comes to taking ethnic outfit inspiration. Well, turns out, we aren’t the only fans of the actress’ effortlessly elegant ethnic style statements; Aditi also seemed to have found a fan in designer Payal Singhal who brought her on board as her showstopper. Wearing one of the very few bridal pieces from Singhal’s collection, Aditi was seen in a lehenga choli set featuring intricate cut-wort details primarily in light gold with accents of purple rose and green incorporated in the embroidery or as beaded embellishments. Peeping through the cutwork was the solid mint lining. This was teamed up with a beautifully done jaal-work dupatta.
Going all the way through with the bridal vibe, Aditi’s outfit was teamed up with a pair of huge chandbalis and a stack of gold handcuffs. Left down, wavy hair, nude eyes, blushed cheeks and the prettiest pink lips completed Aditi’s runway look.
Though ‘contemporary ethnics’ as a term is often associated with casual, Boho vibe, Payal has time and again proved that there’s a lot more to it than just a cool casualness. In Payal’s dictionary, the term is broken down to its literal meaning… ethnic wear that resonates with the present-day zeitgeist. Having rooted her inspiration in Islamic art from Turkey, Morocco, Persia, Mughal India, Iran and Afghanistan, her ‘Saira’ collection is just another extension of the designer’s brilliant fusion skills that blend in ethnic elements with westernized silhouettes.
A lowdown on Payal’s collection…
1. Silhouettes: Staying true to her label’s ethos of designing ethnic wear for the neo-Indian woman, Payal stuck to her signature Indo-Western theme when it came to the silhouettes. Accordingly, the collection saw the inclusion of peplum tunics, crop tops, off-shoulders, jackets, drop-crotch jumpsuits and culottes.
Few as they might have been, classic Indian silhouettes including lehengas, long kurtis and sarees also made their way into the collection.
A repeating silhouette that seemed to have dominated the collection was the dhoti pant which went as much with crop-tops and long kurtis as it did with saree-inspired drapes.
2.Colour Palette: Payal’s colour palette was largely neutral with soft tones of blue, rose pink, min and beige painting a beautiful picture. These were interspersed with darker hues like black, navy and mauve.
3. Prints, Embroiderers & Embellishments: Payal’s inspiration shone through every piece of her collection as Islamic art-inspired vegetal and animal motifs made their way into the collection. While printed floral tapestries formed whole garments in some cases, others saw the use of delicately embroidered details here and there. Other than the prominent cut-work, the collection also saw ample use of Kasav, Mukaish, Fardi, zardosi and filigree work. Then there was the designer’s signature metal fringe that adorned some pieces. Another interesting technique used as a decorative element was the jaal work which was used to create ponchos, finishing hems in kurtis and bottoms, sleeve details and dupattas.
4. Fabrics: Playing around with an interesting mix of textures and falls, Payal’s textiles ranged from luxurious silk, Jamavaars and brocades to that of sheer organza and tulle.
our favourite from the lot happens to be this mint green ensemble comprising of a drop-crotch Afghan harem, a spaghetti crop-top featuring intricate cut-work detailing all over and a Mukaish-embellished long shrug. While wearing the pieces as a set is clearly one way to go, we think these would make for great combos when mix-matched with pieces from our existing wardrobe.
Image Credit: Viral Bhayani